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Travel is great…leaving home to go on an adventure. But you have to be smart about it. Here is some food for thought about how to plan for and enjoy your time in Paris.

CHOOSING DATES:

Do you have to vacation during peak tourist times, or is there some flexibility? If you are traveling with school-aged children, the answer is probably “don’t have a lot of flexibility”. But you’ve got more than you think, as far as being able to control the quality of your experience. Say you want to take the family to Paris and it has to be during summer break. School ends the third week of June. Late June into mid-July is a much better time to be in Paris, than August. Actually, any time is better than August, when chances are, it will be swelteringly hot. Will you enjoy dragging your young ones from museum to monument and then back to the hotel you thought had air-conditioning, but doesn’t? August is also the time when Paris feels like it is inhabited more by tourists than by Parisians. Lines are long, cafés are packed. There are so many tour groups in the museums, it’s impossible to get near the art. Many shops and restaurants close and Parisians head for family retreats in the country, yes, for the whole month. Why not? There are still eleven months left in the year to work yourself to the bone. My advice, get out your bikini and head for Hawaii instead.
So, choose dates wisely. If your heart is set on a particular boutique hotel on the Left Bank, you might want to avoid Fashion Weeks, when anyone who has any connection to the clothing industry, comes to Paris to see or work the shows. The city becomes one huge convention center for the rag trade. It’s impossible to get a reservation to do anything which requires a reservation and hotel concierge staffs are cranky and frustrated.

Do some research. Find out what’s going on in Paris month by month at an informational website such as www.goparis.about.com. You might discover a particular festival or art exhibit that piques your interest, and build your trip around that.

AIR TRAVEL: They Say Getting There Is Half The Fun…Not!

Flying time from Los Angeles to Paris takes somewhere between 11 and 12 hours. That’s about the length of time required for me to develop a pinched nerve in my neck and experience a flare-up of sciatica on my left side. My sinuses revolt, my skin needs constant emollient, and sleeping upright, wedged securely between two giant people, is torture. Unless, of course, I manage to trade in miles for the ultimate traveler’s reprieve, the upgrade to Business. What a difference a class makes. Seats that become beds and the luxury of space, champagne before lift-off. I do feel a bit guilty about all the people squished into Economy, but that lasts for about a minute.
I’ll do anything to rack up miles. I use my credit card for daily transactions because it earns me miles on United. If there is any possible way to wrangle a bump up from Economy Class, do it and don’t look back.

Consider next, the most practical time of day to travel. I try and book my flights so that I can arrive in Paris, mid-day. It’s well before rush hour, I get to my hotel, unpack a few things, and then hit the streets and just keep going until I can’t go anymore. Having part of the day and all of the night, helps me get over the time difference. By midnight, my body is ready for sleep.

When I’m booking my return flight home, I also try to schedule my departure time for early afternoon, so I have the morning to do some last minute shopping and pick up a treat at my favorite patisserie, for the plane ride home. Don’t plan on leaving or arriving by taxi during peak traffic times. Paris is not immune to gridlock.

Another factor to be aware of when it comes to air travel, is that the baggage handling sector of the industry has been severely impacted by the restrictions of items allowed in carry-on luggage. There are too many bags being checked and not enough bodies to sort them and get them to their intended destinations. Plus some planes are simply too small to carry extra weight. Bags routinely get left behind, to be loaded onto a less-crowded flight.

Many travelers just don’t want to deal with downsizing their toiletries to accommodate the 3-ounces only rule. It’s easier to check the darn thing. Because of the decrease in carry-ons, it’s not unusual for an airline to be delivering bags to hotels, the day after arrival.

With decreasing odds that your suitcase has made it onto your flight, here’s what you need to do. Make a list of things you absolutely need to get through the first 24 hours of your trip and take them onboard with you. That includes medications, phone chargers, laptop batteries, essential toiletries, underwear, reading glasses, lip balm, outer wear, basically anything that will cause you to flip out if it goes missing for a day. Your bags haven’t really gotten lost, they were just unable to travel with you.

BOOK IT

Airline reservations are the biggest challenge and that is best done the moment you decide on dates. Word is, that carriers will be cutting back on flights even more, which will make it increasingly difficult to fly when you want to fly.

Next, what are your top choices for hotels? First decide which arrondisement, or neighborhood, best suits your purposes. If you plan to spend most of your time at the Musee du Louvre and love the Jardin des Tuileries, look for hotels in the 1st arrondisement. There are enough lodging choices to fit every budget, in every part of the city.

Make sure there is a convenient Metro station close by, because learning the underground train system is easy and it’s the fastest way to get from place to place.

Now that you’ve made your hotel reservation, make certain that you can present a written confirmation upon check-in which specifies everything you are expecting. For instance, some hotels advertise that they have elevators, but they only service certain floors. Be sure, if this is important to you, that your room is indeed on a floor reachable by lift. Whatever it is that you have requested, twin beds rather than a double, bathroom with a tub as well as a shower, quiet room on the courtyard rather than the noisy one facing the street, get it in writing. Sometimes even the most competent receptionists make mistakes. Keep in mind also, that what is considered to be standard in an American mid-priced hotel room, might be a luxury item in another country.

THE LIST: Things To Do Before You Go

Chores:
(a) Passports take about 4 to 6 weeks to process, so if you don’t already have one, get the ball rolling early. It is possible, for an added fee, to expedite the matter. Go to www.travel.state.gov/passport for information. If you have a passport, check to make sure the expiration date is not approaching. It’s a good idea to make two copies of your passport. In fact, make two copies of another photo I.D. as well. Put one set of copies in your suitcase and leave the other set with someone who can be called in case you lose absolutely everything and need to retrieve numbers. Some people prefer to enter all of this information into a cellular device, but it’s good to have a hard copy as well.

(b) Now make a record of your credit card information, including customer service numbers to call in case of loss or theft. Staple that to your passport info and stash it in your suitcase. Anyone who has had the misfortune of losing travel documents or wallets abroad, will attest to the fact that replacement is challenging. Back it up before you pack it up.

(c) Order all prescription medications a week before travel and request vacation overrides if necessary. Pack what you need, including over-the –counter products used on a fairly regular base, separated and marked in little bags or containers. If ibuprophen is the only analgesic that cures your headaches, bring it. Do you have a sensitive stomach? It’s a good idea to pack an anti-diarrheal medication and maybe something for cold and flu. My doctor likes me to travel with a broad-spectrum antibiotic, just in case airplane air infects me with something really dreadful.

(d) Book anything and everything you can, online in advance. Check to see if restaurants you would like to dine in, have websites and email addresses. Sometimes that’s the only way to assure a reservation for a particular day. Are you interested in a discount museum pass? Go to www.parismuseumpass.com and purchase it from home. Do you plan to travel by train at all? Check out www.eurail.com.

(e) How do you intend to keep plants watered, animals and home cared for while you are gone? Don’t put these items on the last-minute to-do list. The earlier you organize how to keep things going while you are gone, the more relaxed about traveling you can be.

(f) Bills just keep coming. Make arrangements for mail collection and any special circumstances, like a way to make a payment on something coming due while you are away. Travel with an extra check or two. FedEx comes in mighty handy.

(g) Leave a complete itinerary (travel and lodging) with a family member, friend, or co-worker who might need to reach you.

(h) Check the 7-day forecast before packing. Even though it might be summer, an unseasonably cold air mass from the North could be heading straight for Paris. Should you bring a warmer jacket?

(i) I always mean to do this, but rarely do it well. Clean the place up, manage piles, leave it tidy. It feels really good, coming home to a clean space. A big mess makes for a stressful homecoming.

Errands
(a) There is always way too much to do, the day before a trip. It’s just impossible to
be calm and relaxed. There is however, a way to control the chaos. Make a list of things that can be done two weeks from departure. Count down daily, biting off an errand or task each day. What about the skirt you would like to take, which needs to be tailored? Bring it in. Get it back. Make another list, one week out. Take charge of the minutiae. On the last day, you should be left with whatever can only be done then.

(b) Buy a good, compact laminated map of Paris either online or at a bookstore or travel store. It should be durable and weatherproof considering how many times it is going to be opened and closed and stuffed into jacket pockets and bags. A good map illustrates all streets, not just the major thoroughfares and includes a diagram of the Metro system.

(c) Travel with several items that you would consider giving as gifts. Perhaps a hotel concierge has gone out of his way to secure two tickets to a coveted event. Offering a small token of appreciation, a souvenir from your home town, or maybe something hand-made, is a very nice gesture. If you live in Hawaii, corny as it seems, a surfboard keychain given to the girl behind the counter at your favorite boulangerie, might bring a smile to her face every time she unlocks her door.

Attacking The Packing
(a) If packing drives you crazy, start organizing your gear super early. Go through your closest and make two piles, the “definitely coming”, and the “possibilities”.
Overpacking is easy. Packing wisely takes discipline and planning. Choose versatile items of clothing which can make the transition from casual to dressy. If you have three sweaters in contention, eliminate one. If you are staying in one place for a couple of days at least, bring packets of detergent with you and plan to wash undergarments and quick-drying items (which are great choices for travel anyway) in the bathroom sink and hang them up to dry.

Take the smallest suitcase you can get away with. Hotel rooms can be tight, taxis are small, streets are narrow. Your back will thank you for traveling light. And come on, this is Paris, fashion capital of the world. It’s highly likely that any wardrobe emergency can be quickly remedied!

Pack a scrunchable, nylon duffle bag inside your luggage. The bag can be filled with soft, lightweight items that take up precious space, on your return trip. Cram it into an outside pocket or some awkwardly packed crevice inside your suitcase, and enjoy the flexibility of having more room for mementos and acquisitions.

(b) To take, or not to take, your pillow. Can you sleep on a brick that thinks it’s a pillow? If not, consider figuring out a way to bring yours along, especially if you suffer from chronic back or neck pain. Hotel pillows are often disappointingly inferior slabs of unyielding foam. Having your very own best pillow in the world to lay your head upon, could be tres, tres bien.

(c) Organization is key. Decide on a place for everything and put it back into exactly the same spot each time. Most luggage has outside pockets and inside zippered compartments. One can buy very item-specific travel accessories which enhance accessibility and space ultilization, such as compartmentalized toiletry bags which fold up nicely and can be hung on bathroom hooks. Take the time to design your traveling Universe. Once you leave the comfort zone of home, your bag on wheels (rolling is the only way to go) can either frustrate, or comfort you. Is there a logical place to slip shoes into, where they will not soil clothing? Is the shallow pocket on the outside of your bag large enough to accommodate your travel umbrella, which you will need upon arrival, as the forecast calls for rain?

(d) Precious jewelry that requires removal while sleeping, is best left at home. If it’s possible to wear the ring or necklace or earrings you love and not have to take them off while traveling, choose these. It’s ridiculously easy to misplace a ring in a hotel room. Certain as you are, that you placed it in the soapdish before washing up and going to bed, like you do at home, it’s gone missing. Did you put it back on your finger, when you took it off to try on a pair of gloves in Galleries Lafayette? With so much to keep track of while on the move, the smallest, most valuable personal effects are the ones that disappear most frequently.

(e) A good-sized shoulder bag or citified backpack is the perfect choice for exploring the city. At the very least, if you plan to hit the streets for a good part of the day, you will want to carry a bottle of water, the umbrella if rain threatens, wallet, map, lip balm, and whatever else you normally have with you. Then you’ll want to save some room for whatever you pick up along the way, such as a museum catalog, article of clothing or a bag of cookies from the Poilane bakery. You’ll notice that baguettes are everywhere, peeking out of sacks, packs and purses. It’s the classic Parisian accessory.

(f) Let’s talk footwear. Blisters suck. Comfort rocks. Feet swell on airplanes, especially if you are eating salty foods. Wear your most comfortable shoes while traveling. Don’t bring shoes you’ve never worn before. The worst time to discover that shoes don’t fit properly, is during that long walk home from the restaurant, when trains, buses or taxis are not an option. Buy a pair of insoles for cushioning, and last but not least, you’ll appreciate a shoe that will keep your feet dry on relentlessly soggy days. If you respect your toes, your heels and soles, your trip will be a happy one. It’s not hard to find a fashionable pair of shoes these days that are also kind to feet.

MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR STAY IN PARIS/Don’t Be Such A Tourist

(a) Learn the basics of the language, at least how to say hello, goodbye and thank you. Go further, if time permits and join a French class. Most Parisians speak English very well. Most Europeans are multi-lingual due to the close proximity of other cultures. Most Americans study a foreign language in school, but have no opportunity for immersion and conversation. Here’s an opportunity to exercise your brain, grasp the fundamentals of French, and then practice it. The ability to communicate in a host country’s tongue, personalizes the experience.

(b) Explore the idiosyncrasies of the neighborhood you are staying in. Do as the Parisians do. Does everyone seem to be lining up at 8am at the boulangerie down the street? What are they buying? The most sublime croissants on the planet might be coming fresh out of the oven, a few steps from your hotel. On which day of the week does the farmers market take place on the plaza? The beautiful church around the corner might include an organ recital during Sunday morning mass. Some of the churches in Paris are famous for their splendid, historic organs and concerts are scheduled regularly.

(c) Learn the public transit system and get places fast! The Paris Metro (subway system) is a remarkable feat of engineering, clean, easy to use, efficient and inexpensive. Buy a carnet, or ten-ticket pack. Most maps include a diagram of the Metro lines. The buses work well too, and you have the advantage of being above-ground to sightsee a bit, but of course, they are a slower alternative. Some of the metro stations are works of art, below and above ground. The entrance to the Abbesses metro station is an architectural Art Nouveau gem, designed by Hector Guimard. If you are using public transportation, be sure to check times of operation. The metro stations shut down around 12:30 am and it’s a long walk from one end of the city to the other!

(d) The Parisian weekday schedule has its quirks. Visitors are often surprised and disappointed when they arrive at a shop, only to find that it closed at 1pm for lunch and won’t be open again until 3 or 4pm. This is quite common throughout France, in fact, throughout Europe. Afternoon closures mainly apply to smaller businesses. They usually stay open until 7pm or later, if they take the afternoon break. It’s also good to know, when making plans for dinner, that restaurants generally do not start serving until 7pm, and nine o’clock is prime dining time. Most Americans dine earlier. If you’re wondering how you got a 7pm reservation at a hot spot, you might arrive and find the place empty. But come 10pm, the joint will be jumpin’. Got the munchies at midnight? Brasseries stay open until the wee hours of the morning.

(e) Protocol is important. Certain polite behaviors are expected during routine daily interactions. Upon entering a store, it would be considered extremely rude not to say hello (bonjour), and make eye contact. The same applies for departure (au revoir), and a cheery merci (thank you) is also appreciated.
Note how business is transacted in service-oriented food shops such as boulangeries and patisseries. First you wait in line to give your order at the counter. You are given a receipt. Take that receipt to the cashier and pay for your items. Then return to the counter to pick up your purchases. Check out how the person ahead of you has navigated the transaction. Be a copy-cat and have patience.

(f) Does your hotel provide a concierge service? If so, use it! A concierge will direct you to a great local café, spur of the moment. You can give a concierge a list of the restaurants you are interested in getting into and see if he can wrangle you a reservation for another night. He can check on museum hours, arrange day trips outside of Paris, direct you to a great haircutter. Be sure to show your appreciation.

(g) Europeans are more conservative energy consumers. Air-conditioning and heating systems are sometimes less adequate than expected. If you are traveling with something that requires electricity, make sure it is current-adaptive and bring your own adaptor.

(h) Be patient and respectful of local customs. When ordering a cold beverage on a hot day, most likely it will be delivered to your table, without ice. If you ask your server to bring you some, it might take a while, and even then, you might receive only two partially frozen cubes. It’s not an ice-crazed culture. The same goes for ketchup. Don’t expect pommes-frites (French fries) to come with it, unless you specifically ask for ketchup on the side.

(i) Try to avoid hitting the big tourist attractions, such as the Tour Eiffel or the Musee du Louvre at peak visiting hours. Can you go at night, or first thing in the morning? Midday lines can be daunting. Similarly, Saturdays and Sundays draw bigger crowds. If you time it right, you can avoid that tourist trapped in a tourist-trap feeling.



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