In 1604 King Henry IV erected a royal pavilion at the south end of this square, and miraculously, the brick and stone, slate-roofed apartments begun four centuries ago, still make up the perimeter of the Place des Vosges.

Take it all in, under the arches of the arcade, at the atmospheric café, Ma Bourgogne. Sit outside, where tall lamps are lit for warmth in cooler seasons, and dine on crepes or lamb chops. Berthillon ice cream, known around the world for its perfection, is served here.

Cardinal Richelieu lived on this square, called Place Royale. He became King Louis XIII’s Chief Minister, and the first royal appointee to define a position which today is the equivalent of a Prime Minister. He is responsible for the creation of the Academie Francaise.

In 1800, Napoleon renamed the square, Place des Vosges.

After lunch at Ma Bourgogne, you might want to visit the home of Victor Hugo, who lived at 6 Place des Vosges from 1832 until 1848. Most of Les Miserables was penned here.

The essence of one of the most historic districts of Paris, the Marais, is awaiting your discovery. Ma Bourgogne, with its roots firmly planted in the Aveyron region of France (mid-Pyrenees), is a brilliant stop on your walk about the neighborhood.

Sit awhile and read the letters of Madame de Sevigny, illustrious, literary, local resident born a few steps away in 1626.

Ma Bourgogne
19 Place des Vosges
4th Arrondisement
Metro: Saint-Paul or Bastille