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RUE MOUFFETARD : PARIS MARKET STREET ( RUE COMMERCANTE )

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Rue Mouffetard, affectionately known as “La Mouffe” dates from Roman times.

It was an important thoroughfare which linked Paris to Italy. The River Bievre, long since diverted underground, ran close by and still the street retains its ancient, homey feel. Start at the church, St-Medard, a religious site dating back to the Merovingian Kings and walk North.

Along the narrow, winding street, vendors man their small produce stands. There are little cafes, an ice cream shop, clothing stores and a vital, slice-of-life feel here. Yes, tourists do crowd the street, but Parisians still own it, shop it, love it.

At the top of the street is the lovely Place de la Contrescarpe with its two cafes situated across from one another, La Chope and La Contrescarpe.

Continue on a little ways to #3 Rue Clovis for a look at one of the remnants of the original roman Wall of Philippe-Auguste.

Also of note, Ernest Hemingway, who described La Place de la Contrescarpe in his book, "The Snows of Killimanjaro", lived at #74 Rue du Cardinal Lemoine.

You will encounter this street just north of the square.

Rue Mouffetard
5th Arrondisement
Metro: Censier-Daubenton
Hours: 8am-1pm, Tuesday to Sunday

The streets of Paris are indeed a moveable feast. To feel the pulse of the city, peruse the outdoor markets. Some are permanent rues commercantes (commercial streets) with a mix of stalls, cafes and shops selling specialty foods, and others are marches volantes (roving markets), set up on particular days only. Parisians shop daily for fresh bread, produce and the ingredients for meals cooked at home.

Each neighborhood, called an arrondisement, offers a great market experience. You don’t have to be a foodie, to find interest here. It’s a critical component of everyday life, the selection and purchase of the perfect provisions. Vendors take great pains to display their goods artistically and business is conducted with very specific protocol. Just watch how the business of marketing is conducted and follow suit.

Of course, if you have access to a stovetop and oven wherever you are staying, these market day adventures may yield some astonishing results. The simple preparation of best-available ingredients, can be addictive.



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